Intro to Trad Gear

Climbing instructor leaning against a rock teaching climbers how to placing trad gear for lead climbing

Trad Gear and Anchors: An Introduction

This hands on, intro course will focus on basic principles, techniques and skills for using traditional climbing protection; cams, nuts, tricams, hexes, natural features, etc.

We will focus on applying protection skills into the context of anchor building for top rope set up, top belay and lead climbing. Learn tools and develop your bag of tricks for confident efficient trad climbing. The curriculum will be presented with a balance of instruction and hands on practice. No previous trad rock climbing experience is necessary. We can provide all trad gear and equipment needed. Let us help you take your sport climbs to the next level!

Belayer assisting a climber up a route while trad climbing at Smith Rock

Essential Trad Skills for Anchor Building and Lead Climbing

The Traditional Climbing Rack

  • Define and explore each type of trad gear and how they are used hands-on.
  • Learn how to build a trad rack to match your goals, ability and the areas you climb. Rock climbing gear for beginners and more experienced climbers will vary.
  • Selection- selecting the correct size and type
  • Placement- optimal placement to best match terrain features

Anchor Systems

Putting it all together! We'll cover core anchor building principles and explore the different options of joining protection points to create a solid personal anchor system for top roping and top belaying.

Climbing instructor leaning against a rock teaching climbers how to placing trad gear for lead climbing

Placing Trad Gear on Lead

Lead

Learn and explore the basic principles and considerations of placing trad gear on lead:

  • Racking up - preparing and organizing your climbing gear
  • Stances- efficient, comfortable crack climbing technique
  • Assessing terrain and rock quality
  • Extensions to mitigate rope drag and optimal stability
  • Spacing- recognizing and protecting terrain hazards
  • Removing and re-racking gear as a second climber

All initial lead practice will be done as a “mock” lead (with added security of a top rope, on belay).

2024 Course Dates

Book your Smith Rock climbing course today, and learn from an expert AMGA-certified guide!

April 27th, May 31st, July 10th, August 16th, September 6th

Courses are $180 per person, a minimum of two people required to run a course

If the listed course ‘dates don’t work with your schedule, all courses can be arranged as a Private Guided Day Trip – customized to your needs, on the day you choose.

Check out our other instructional courses to take your climbing skills to the next level!
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Our AMGA Accreditation helps assure our clients receive the highest professional standards in our industry.
Our AMGA Accreditation helps assure our clients receive the highest professional standards in our industry.
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